The streets of Cusco are damp with the rain of the night before as one by one the bikes take position on the street out front of our hotel. The Transalp had enjoyed two nights of comfort in the lobby and was now ready to tackle the day. The entire pre-ride procedure is a bit like an ant colony...only a lot less organized. We all chip in loading gas cans, tool kits and pieces of Larry’s bike into the red pickup truck. The whirring sound of a small air compressor is the only mechanical sound so far as once issues with Larry’s bike slow our departure. Raul’s also found a minor problem with his new Varadero. A slow leak but noting he can’t deal with.
Before long we’re all up and on our way heading for Lake Titicaca and Puno. The route today will take us from comfort to cold and back as we climb into the Andes before descending on Puno. As we work our way up the air becomes cleaner and noticeably thin. The roads are forgiving making for a pretty relaxed ride. We aren’t dropping bikes today saving our strength and allowing us to breathe comfortably as we approach nearly 5000 metres above sea level. With snow capped mountains in our sights the landscape again shows us much of what the earth has to offer. Outside of the busy towns of Peru the countryside is simply stunning. I hate to say it like that but I really cannot come up with a better description. Farmers work their fields. Alpaca mind their own business but pop up and stare at us as we file past. The air is cold now as we reach the highest point on this segment of the trip. Pulling over to stop at a roadside market it’s easy to find a bit quiet reflection mixed in with David Bowie’s “China Girl” coming from the small radio accompanying the vendors. These moments are some of my favourites. Seeing local people in their environment and learning how they live. Every time we’ve stopped the people have been friendly and genuine. The Peruvian’s are proud and rugged with faces that speak without words.
Closing in on our destination we find ourselves headed for Juliaca (Pronounced hoo-li-yaka). This was Peru’s answer to Gotham City. The only thing missing was the caped crusader himself. The town is very dirty and looks as though the war just ended about ten minutes prior to our arrival. The town is absolutely jammed with every imaginable kind of vehicle. The air is grey with dust and diesel exhaust. Piero and I have become separated from the rest of the team and we weave our way in what we hope is the right direction. Being trapped in a Peruvian town with Chilean plates on your bike probably isn’t the best of circumstances.
Rolling into the town gas station we catch up with the team and a laughing Aldo. “Isn’t this insane?”...Aldo says from behind his helmet. I could only agree. The guy that almost parked his truck on my left foot at the last traffic light was certainly insane so it started making some sense to me. At one point in the planning it was a consideration to stay in this place. Luckily that changed. To stay here we were lacking one key ingredient...our own air supply.
After a little while we finally arrived at the Eco Inn in Puno on the shores of Lake Titicaca. This is a beautiful and clean hotel just outside of Puno right on the water. I was very much looking forward to a solid night’s sleep here. Suddenly all the filth of a short time earlier was made worthwhile. This place was peaceful and beautiful. The only thing I needed was my Kayak.
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