The coastal roads north of Ilo were quickly replaced by new challenges. Enormous construction equipment gated our path and the word of 20 or more kilometres of uncertain road forced us to make some determinations. First, was Victor Hugo, his condition and whether or not he could safely navigate what lay ahead. Increasing pain made the decision for him. It was time for the big BMW to take a break. The team sprung into action quickly securing the bike to the trailer. Victor’s range of motion made it difficult to remove his riding jacket. I helped him as the others prepared for what was to come.
The often single lane road was comprised of large loose stones as a result of the construction between here and Mollendo. Before we set off Pier said “eyes up!”... valuable advice. Motorcycles like to go where you are looking. If you look at the rock five inches ahead of your wheel...that’s where you are going and likely no further. With that advice echoing in my mind we set off on what would surely be some of the most challenging riding I’d seen...well so far anyway.
The twists and turns were complicated by the almost endless cloud of dust that enveloped us. Often you’d be hard pressed to see ahead for the debris swirling behind the motorbike you were following. The trucks approaching from the opposite direction would often produce an entirely new set of considerations. Pace, faith, some caution and a heap of luck saw me through. Periodically Pier and I would stop, wipe the dust from our visors and absorb the reality of our surroundings. It was dusty, sparse and nothing short of remarkable all at once. Through mud, sand, gravel, rocks and dirt we managed to press through to find smooth roads leading into Mollendo and the next challenge...a mountain passage at night with a twist.
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